Day 57

July 27, 2005

Tonight I write to you from the basement of the kind Carver family in Kansas City, Kansas. It was another beautiful day finished off by great hospitality of new friends.

I got up, went to Spangles, a little 50’s style fast food diner, for an early lunch, and made my way over to the Topeka Capital-Journal. Unfortunately, I arrived as the newsroom had gone for lunch. I went over to McDonald’s for a little McDessert, Flurry-style, to kill time while I waited for the reporters to get back from lunch. When I returned I was able to speak to Hal, one of the reporters, who was very interested in the trip. We chatted a while and found that all the photographers were now out of the office as well. I hung around a while until they came back and let them fire off a few pictures before getting on the road. It was close to 4 by the time I finally got on the road. I wasn’t too upset by getting out so late, I was very thankful that they were interested in the trip and willing to do a story on it.

It was another great day to ride again. It was in the low 70s with scattered clouds and the wind was very kind. It’s amazing how big a factor the weather plays in determining your morale for the day. Today it was invigorating. It felt like one of those early spring days that carries all the promises of summer; it was great. The only bummer was a flat about a third of the way into the ride. Fortunately, it didn’t take too long to fix and I got back on the road pretty quickly.

I got inside Kansas City and called upon my Dad again to lead me to some shelter. I was still atleast 5 miles from the closest option, but we came up with a plan and I headed for it. I was en route to my stop for the night when I came upon a guy in a cycling jersey standing in a parking lot watching me roll up. Heading home from a day ride of his own, he had passed me and stopped to ask about the tandem. We chatted briefly of the trip and the tandem. When I told him how I was headed to the little motel up the road for the night he said I could stay at his house if I wanted to. Having learned my lesson from the last kind offer of friendly lodging, I thankfully took him up on it.

I followed the directions over to his house and was greeted by the rest of his family. Marc and Tammy, with their two children, Adam and Rachael, welcomed me into their home as if I were one of their own. They let me use their shower, fed me, washed some of my clothes, worked out a plan to get me down to the paper tomorrow – Marc’s going ride down with me and show me the way on his bike – Marc even fixed my bike computer after dinner for me. I couldn’t have asked for a better night. What a great surprise.

Now, as I said, I sit in their basement which doubles as an amazing studio and processing lab for Marc’s photography business. A while ago I got a little lesson in developing as I was able to witness he and his two best little helpers in action, before it was the little helpers' bedtime.

Thank you again guys! I’ve enjoyed meeting and spending time with you in your home. Thanks for everything!

I continue to be blessed by little, and huge, random acts of kindness such as tonight. Even meeting with Hal and having him receive the trip with such open ears was a great gift; Topeka is the largest market to feature the trip thus far. I’m looking forward to tomorrow and enjoying a little time in Kansas City before heading out after lunch. It was nice riding around Topeka a bit while I killed time waiting for the reporters to get back from lunch, I’m hoping to get the same little taste of Kansas City tomorrow. It’s supposed to be a little warmer tomorrow, but nothing like the days I’ve had. So hopefully I’ll be able to take my time without dying in the hot heat of the afternoon hours on the ride tomorrow. As always, I’ll let you know how it goes…

Day 56

July 26, 2005

Today was, by all traditional standards, a nasty, rainy day. However, I found it to be a beautiful reprieve from the heat that has plagued the past few days of the trip.

I got up and saw it was rainy and cool outside and figured I could take my time in getting on the road. After a stop by McDonald’s for lunch, I got on the road around 1.

It really was a nasty day. It was the first rain day since riding into West Yellowstone, and that seems like forever ago. Time has really flown by. The other day, while updating the journal, I couldn’t believe I was already at “Day 50.” It’s almost over. Part of me is, of course, extremely excited by that and part of me is pretty sad by that as well.

But anyway, I was able to enjoy the return to the rain and it’s coolness for the better part of the ride. There were a few times that it became more of a struggle than I would have liked, but overall, it was a fun ride. I got to town and was guided into Topeka by my Dad who got online and became my second pair of eyes.

My cousin David also called while I was on the road to let me know the article ran successfully in the Clay Center Dispatch. If you wish, you can read the article by clicking here.

I have been touched by all the recent notes in the guestbook. Many have been left by families directly related to CF in a real and personal way. I thank you all of you who have left such kind and encouraging words. I am trying my best to tell our story and spread the word of this awful disease we all know too well.

From what I gather, this experience continues to be a wonderful circle of hope and encouragement. You tell me of how encouraged you are by the journey and how you enjoy reading and participating in it and, in turn, I get encouraged and inspired by hearing of the courageous battles continuing to be fought with CF in the hearts and bodies of your amazing children.

It’s so easy to forget how fortunate most of us are. We so often get caught up in the day-to-day tasks of life and fail to recognize the small miracles we take for granted. The miracle of health, just being able to wake up every morning and complain about the heat without having to complete 45 minutes of therapeutic treatments beforehand. The miracle of friends and family. The next time you get upset with someone close to you ask yourself how much you love them before you act out on the frustration – we waste so much time fighting over the trivial details of life. Why not be thankful for and embrace those close to you; delight in your differences. Life is too short. Stop and take a picture of a flower. Then develop that picture, frame it, and give it to someone you haven’t spoken to in a while.

Last fall, while I was teaching at Catholic High in VA Beach (Go CHS!) we watched and discussed the film Dead Poets Society. One of the most obvious points in the film is “carpe diem,” seize the day. I think I got more out of the lesson than the kids did, I hope not, but I think so. As the bell rang and the kids scurried to gather their belongings and race out the door, I challenged them again by telling them to do something that day that scared them. As we discussed in the 50 minutes prior, I was alluding to something along the lines of telling someone how much they appreciated them, or giving one of their parents an unprompted hug... As they left I seriously hoped none of them decided to set their hair on fire and jump off any roofs.

Fear can be a wonderful thing, especially in letting your senses know you’re still alive. I got a huge dose of fear as I stood at the top of that cliff a few weeks ago. I didn’t tell anyone, but I counted it a small celebration of life for myself; celebrating the opportunity to experience fear and the indescribable reward of completing the jump.

I guess I just say all that to say, I recognize how precious life is. And when I hear of a ten year old fighting a horrible monster like CF with the courage and determination of a soldier it just blows me away. It’s incredible to think of how strong and resilient the unbreakable spirit of a child can be. I don’t think I knew it at first, but I saw it long ago in Stephen and I know the same spirit lives in the hearts of the countless young adults battling all kinds of disease, not just CF.

Life is good, be thankful for yours.

Days 52-55

July 25, 2005

Hello from Manhattan, Kansas. I hope everyone is enjoying the comforts of their air conditioning as you read and get your fill of this continuing cross-country cycling goodness. The heat continues to make thing interesting out here; I’ve actually found it to be quite inconvenient. It affects everything.

We are sometimes faced with obstacles in life whose battles, if we are fortunate enough, may be waged with a sense of nobility. The trip has held a few such obstacles in the form of some of the hills back west. There were times when I’d be slowly sweating my way up a long road and a car with a bike rack would pass with a guy at the wheel fanatically giving me a thumb up as he passed. What an incredible, anonymous shot of confidence. With one small gesture I’d all at once be filled with an overwhelming sense of self-assuredness, reminded of all the support back home, and fueled with the energy to scale the pass and the next stretch of road after. And then, while now tackling the road ahead, I’d envision all the images of cyclists I’ve seen pounding their way up a hill and view the test as a rite of passage of sorts.

These days, there is a touch of nobility felt in the war being waged against the intense heat. However, unlike the passing, random shots of support found in the western mountains, the current locals do nothing to reinforce that feeling. In fact, the overwhelming assumed sensibility prompting my self-induced sweatfest is stupidity.

Long gone are the chance thumbs up by the passing cars. They have been replaced with raised eyebrows and concerned comments like: “Little hot to be doing that isn’t it..?” At times I begin to question my own sense of logic. No, more than questioning my sense of reasoning, I simply begin to question when it will end.

As I said, it affects everything. “Everything” only being the three or four elements of this simplified life of crossing the country by bike, but “everything” nonetheless. Let me quickly fill you in on the past few days.

After I wrote my last entry on the 21st back in Hoxie, a nice lady in a Blazer stopped to ask about “4pedals.com.” She saw the best bicycle billboard ever and stopped to inquire. Once we got to talking she told me she wasn’t just being nosey, she’s a reporter for the Colby newspaper. I gave her the scoop on the journey and the events leading up to it, she took a few pictures, and everyone was happy. She said she’d put together a little story and have it run in the Colby paper. Thank you Jan for being inquisitive enough to stop and ask about the bike, as well as do a little story on it.

The night in the Hoxie city park wasn’t bad at all. Other than the manmade daylight cast by the excessive amount of streetlights, the heat wasn’t too bad and I had a rather nice rest. I successfully got up to a nice early start as planned; I was on the road shortly after 7.

The ride that morning was the most peaceful of the trip. The picture I posted above Day 51 is of that morning; it’s one of the few pictures that manages to capture a sense of the real thing. I felt like I crept out of Hoxie as quietly as possible, so as not to wake anyone. The golden sun was just beginning to stretch through the clouds and warm the rolling hills I found east of town. On the road you could smell the morning coolness still coming from the damp wooded groves tucked away off to the side. It was one of the most peaceful scenes I’ve ever experienced, let alone the trip itself. As I said, I was pleasantly surprised to find nice rolling hills coming out of Hoxie. Not only were they not flat, they featured variety of natural vegetation unlike the Kansas roads I traveled the days prior. The land was still marked off like a sprawling quilt, only now between the contrasting patches of terrain were thin rows and clusters of trees scattered about. It reminded me of how I expect Tuscany to be. At times I’d allow myself to imagine I was already there, riding through the countryside. All it needed was a vineyard or two with handful of workers out pruning the vines…

It didn’t take long for the cool morning to give way to the dry heat of the early afternoon hours. I had planned on going Osborne that day, but with the intense heat and the word of heavy construction, I decided to stay in Stockton for the night. And yes, as you may have guessed, it didn’t take long for me to dive back into the motels.

It was only 3:30 when I decided to stay in Stockton. I had already killed close to two hours at the city pool, enough to burn the front and back of by upper body, and had a good 3 hours left of the intense heat. I didn’t want to get all sweaty again by hanging out at the park waiting for nightfall, so I dropped $25 to check into a little motel and spend the rest of the night in the AC – well worth it.

The next day was a full day of heat on the ride to Beloit. Nothing too exciting happened other than a late start followed by a late arrival, but it was a kind an intentional late start. Another problem with the heat: you get to your destination too early and have nothing to do in the small town except hang out in the shade and wait for dusk. I figured I’d take my time in getting to Beloit since knew there wouldn’t be anything waiting for me when I got there anyway. After a long ride and a lot of sweat I finally got to the Beloit Dairy Queen where I was greeted by a lovely Mint Oreo Blizzard.

Yesterday I made my way to Clay Center. Yesterday I began to get a little tired of the hills I gladly welcomed a few short days ago. Between the heat, the hills, and the long stretch without services, it was a long day. Thankfully my music helps cut up some of the madness that easily creeps in when battling so many variables.

Four miles outside of Clay Center I got a flat. I drained the last of my water 5 – 10 miles earlier and was already pushing to get to town to quench the rest of my thirst. It would have been a hard struggle to fix the flat in the heat of the sun without water or shade. So, for the first time, I walked back to the house I had just passed a quarter mile back, knocked on the door, and asked if I could steel some water. The lady kindly obliged, questioned my judgment for riding in the unrelenting heat, and wished me well.

As I was changing out the inner tube, three people stopped and asked if I was alright; everyone was right, people are really nice out here in Kansas. One guy who stopped even filled up one of my bottles with Ice Cold, great tasting, French water. I don’t know if it was French, but it was amazing.

I got to town, filled up at Pizza Hut, and turned down the best offer of the trip. After I ate, I asked a nice couple if they knew of a park I could camp for the night. They gave me a few ideas and we chatted a bit. As I was paying, the wife came up to me and said I could camp at their house, and actually, just stay in their extra bedroom. I asked if they were sure and she said absolutely, they just live 12 miles up the road. I thanked them very much but told them I’d be fine riding up to the park a few blocks away. If they were nearby I would have probably taken them up on it, and I’m sure they would have given me a ride in their truck I’m sure they had, but I didn’t want to be an inconvenience. It turned out to be a big mistake.

Last night was the worst night I’ve had in a long time. It was a warm night and I stupidly set up my tent in the worst place for air. I had a little washcloth I used to wipe the sweat away while I lay as still as possible, trying to cool down. I could hear the wind blowing the trees around me and thought about moving to a better vantage point. When the rain drops started to come I made that move. I threw the fly on the tent, waterproofed my gear, grabbed my sleeping pad, left everything, and headed to the picnic shelter at the top of the hill. It was a rather well-lit area with houses nearby. As I lay on a picnic table in the middle of the little community with my little mat, I came to know the difference between “camping” and just plain homeless.

It was a bad night. I ended up moving again to another shelter in a less conspicuous area where I became an all night buffet for the winged beasts of the night. After two hard fought naps on that picnic table, I ended up going back to the tent around 2:30. Thankfully the little shower had cooled things off, but it was still a bit of a struggle to get comfortable enough to fall asleep. I was tempted to pack up and head for Manhattan right then, but just the thought of that made me tired. So I went with it and kept thinking of all the things I’d have to do to get on the road until I fell asleep…

Today I got up and thanked God I made it through the night. I got everything together and went on a hunt for breakfast. I asked a lady in town where I could find a bite to eat and she told me I should swing by the paper before I left so they could do a story. Of course, I thought that was a great idea and followed her advice. The news editor interviewed me, took a few pictures, and said he’d run a story for me. Thank you to all the kind folks I encountered in and around Clay Center for your kind hospitality.

I got to Manhattan, found the town paper, The Mercury, thanks to a little research from David, and went in to chat. A nice reporter sat down, took some notes about what I was doing, and said she’d fill her news editor in tomorrow. She said she’s the one who decided which stories to run. She was very nice and said, although she couldn’t make any promises, she’d see what she could do.

As expected, after my fun night last night, I didn’t have the energy to go to Topeka as I had hoped. So, once again, I checked into another fabulous Motel 6 and took a 2-hour nap. I got up, did some Much Needed laundry, got some groceries, and hung out with some good fried chicken. I also decided to re-wrap my handlebars. The tape had gotten pretty worn up top and I figured I could rotate it and get a refreshed, more comfortable, grip on the bars. I did that and it looks and feels great. However, in doing so, I had to take off my bike computer beforehand and remount it after. Well, I remounted it with two zip-ties and was trimming off the excess zip-tie with my pocketknife when I accidentally snipped the wire of my computer. I figured I could strip the wires and twist them together and wrap them with electrical tape, but the wires are too delicate to work with. In short, I killed my computer. I’m pretty bummed, but what are ya gonna do..?

So that’s how life’s been the past few days. Tomorrow I’ll get to Topeka and Wednesday I be in Kansas City. I’m looking forward to the days to come. Evidently there’s supposed to be a cool front coming through tomorrow too, we’ll see just how “cool” it is…

Day 52: 67.42
Day 53: 74.78
Day 54: 58.09
Today: 45.29 Total: 2,538.45

**And now without my computer, that’s the last of the “official mileage." I guess it doesn’t really matter. As long as I get home, that’s all that counts…

Somebody Google Mr. Stover and tell me where I took that...

Eveybody's famous for something I guess...

The ghost town that is Cawker City...

This was a real lake, not a reservior, somewhere... But it was great. It had little waves, wanna-be seagulls, everything...

One for Collin...

One of the Kansas State University buildings here in Manhattan.

Take me home, Baby! Show me the way...

Day 51

July 21, 2005

Well today was another hot, hot day. I got off to another late start and rode right in the heat of the day’s death zone.

I patched that flat in the rear tire last night and was going to put it on the bike this morning before taking off. As I was pumping it up this morning I snapped the pin inside the valve; as you may remember, this isn’t the first time I’ve done this. Consequently, all the air I had put in the tire came pouring out as soon as I took off the pump. Having no spare tube, I feared I was in real trouble.

I looked in the phone book for a bike shop and found none. After five minutes of thinking how I could get a tube mailed to me, I decided to look in the other phone book for the surrounding counties. In that phone book I found a shop within a mile’s walk.

I walked over to where the shop was supposed to be and asked a lady if she knew where I could find it. She informed me the shop had recently moved and was now on the other side of town. She also said she’d give me a ride over if I wanted. Of course, I graciously accepted. She gave me a ride over to the shop, waited while I bought the four tubes, and took me back to my bike at the motel. It was incredibly nice of her; and Michelle, I thank you again!

Once I got the new tube in and everything ready to roll out, it was approaching noon. I knew it’d be a hot ride but figured it’d be a short one and I could deal with it. It was close to 1 when I finished lunch and got on the road. After a stop by Wal-Mart for a jug of Gatorade to put in my bottles, I was off.

Like every other ride in the heat, the sun quickly heated my bottled fluids for the day. Today I’d have Passion Fruit Hot Herbal Tea by Gatorade to get me to Hoxie. It wasn’t the best, but it was 100 times better than the plain hot water. The heat was intense but thankfully I had a nice crosswind trying to keep me cool, it was the first time I was thankful for a crosswind. But even with the wind, at times it was unbearable.

At one point I notice one of those long irrigation systems in the distance. I immediately thought of how great it would be if it were running and said a little prayer that it would be. Thankfully, it was running! I parked my bike, took off my helmet and gloves, and went down for a nice cooling little roadside shower. It was great! As I was walking back to the bike a nice older man going the other direction in an oversized pickup slowed and asked if I was alright. I told him I was just cooling off a bit and he offered me some water. I thanked him but told him I was in good shape. With a tip of his hat, he told me to stay cool and road off.

I was pretty set after that refreshing romp through the artificial rain in the field. I did have to stop frequently to rest and take a few sips of my afternoon tea, but I made it. I pulled into town, got a nice tall ICED tea at a convenience store, and asked directions to the public pool.

For $1.50 I got to enjoy the refreshing waters of the Hoxie Municipal Pool with a host of other children trying to beat the summer heat. It was quite the reward for surviving the ride. After an hour and a half of summertime fun, I went back to Main Street for a bite to eat.

I went to Short Stop, a small little café, and enjoyed a nice chat with two older locals while I waited for my chicken fried steak. They were nice folks and gave me directions to a better park than the one I was headed for to camp for the night. As the man finished his coffee and got up to leave, he slid a five under my plate and asked if that would help the cause. I told him it would indeed and thanked him very much. Even more Kansas Kindness…

I ate my dinner and made my way over to the park; they were right, it is very nice. I even have a nice wind blowing, keeping things as cool as they can be. I really have nothing else to do tonight. I’m hoping to be asleep shortly after dusk and wake up pretty early. I’m going close to a hundred miles tomorrow to Osbourne. I’m hoping to get there by 1 and avoid the heat all together, or as much as possible…

Today: 39.58 Total: 2,292.87

A newly chilled cyclist enjoying the brief cooldown at his favorite roadside water park.

Night closing in on the Hoxie carnival

Day 50

July 20, 2005

Today I got out much earlier and was able to avoid the afternoon heat. I got up at 6 and went for breakfast and was on the road before 8. It was a nice morning of riding. I was able to average just under 20 mph on the ride to Colby. I knew I was moving along pretty quickly, but I didn’t think I deserved to be pulled over by the state patrol…

I was halfway to Colby when Officer Byron, true story, slowly passed in the other direction and motioned to stop as he turned around to chat. I guess it doesn’t matter what I drive, I still manage to attract attention from the boys in blue. He asked me if I came from Colorado and told me I wasn’t allowed to ride on the interstates in Kansas. I told him I was looking to get off as soon as I found the option and he gave me directions to get off and keep moving east. He was a nice guy and asked about the tandem, chatted about my pedals and how they play on the knees and such. I gave him my card, told him to check out the site, thanked him, and went on my way. Still making friends…

I got off the interstate and finished my ride to Colby. And I can’t keep mentioning “Colby” without telling everybody about my favorite crazy jack-russell terrier, Colby. Ever since I started seeing the signs for Colby yesterday, I haven’t been able to keep the loveable pup out of my head. He’s like the hyper kid in school who always drove everybody nuts but was incredibly smart and had a ton of potential… That’s Colby. He’s my friend Leslie’s dog and is the coolest in Richmond; just ask him to put on his “Doggles”...

I got into town and drove around while I made my way for lunch. As I was riding around I saw a nice park to set up camp for the night. I was planning on going to Hoxie, but decided to hang around here since I had the time. I ate and walked over to check out the movie times at the nearby movie theater. I was going to beat the afternoon heat with another matinee in the AC. I was bummed to find they’re only open on Fridays and Saturdays. I heatedly screamed, “IT’S SUMMER, PEOPLE!!!” to the empty building and went back to the bike. I muscled the bike from its parking spot and realized I had a flat rear tire as I got on it to head up the road.

I really wasn’t looking forward to patching the tire on the side of the road in the sweltering afternoon heat. With that being the immediate situation, and the promise of my 2-hour movie cool down being stripped from me, I decided to walk into the Motel 6, conveniently located 100 yards away, and check out their rates.

I have decided to make a valiant effort to make this the second to last hotel I check into. I’m sure Libby and I will split a motel when we meet somewhere around St. Louis. Other than that, I am committing myself to camping out from here out, or at least, just no more motels. And I’m making it official by putting it in the journal, adding some accountability… We’ll see what happens…

Today: 44.27 Total: 2,253.29

Ps.
I was only kidding, there was no screaming outside the theater…

Fun times...

Getting closer...

Day 49

July 19, 2005

Today was incredibly hot.

I got out and rolling around 11, much later than I should have; lesson learned. I decided to have a banana and ride the 16 miles to Burlington for my real meal of the morning. I got to Burlington hot, thirsty, and ready for the AC.

The heat throws everything off physically, it’s really important to get an early start to avoid as much of the heat as possible. I went to McDonald’s in Burlington and got a super-sized value meal. The first thing I went for was the drink machine to fill up my super-sized bucket of Coke. It didn’t take long to go through the bucket and, stupidly, a refill. Of course, the insane amount of Coke made me sick and gave me a nice cramp to work through before getting back out to the bike.

I hung out and let my stomach work itself out a bit and went back out into the heat. Before I left for the trip, my friend Jeff, who knew what I’d be up against, told me to think of him when I had to take a nice hot swig of water from my bottle on a blazin hot day. I thought a lot of him today; it’s awful. Before I left McDonald’s I refilled all my water and even put ice in it. I wasn’t 5 miles down the road before the ice had melted, and no more than 12 miles down before it was nice and warm again. I just tell myself it’s some kind of really bad weak herbal tea that I have to drink. And it works; I manage to drink it. But between the warmth of the water, the great plastic flavor added by the bottle – now intensified by the heat, and the headache you’re already fighting, the water almost acts against you and makes you want to stop drinking it. It was a hot day.

I ended up pulling into Goodland and calling it a day, that was enough for me. I also vowed to get up and out much earlier tomorrow…

Today: 51.00 Total: 2,202.29

Number 6!!!

The first town after the Kansas/Colorado state line.

Day 48

July 18, 2005

Today is another one of those days where the morning of which seems like forever ago. But of course it wasn’t, it was this morning.

Today I woke up feeling sick to my stomach. This isn’t the first time this has happened recently, but hopefully it’s the last. I had planned on getting up early and updating the journal, but due to the nausea I decided to eat a little something and, hopefully, rest the tummy to recovery.

Still not completely over the sick stomach, I got on the road a little after noon and was thankful for the great day I had to ride. It was in the lower 80’s and had not a cloud in the sky. Right off the bat I was posed with a choice I still hadn’t answered for myself. I could either, take interstate 70 east out of Limon, or take state road 40 “east” out of town but actually southeast in true direction. In taking 40 I would have added another 20 miles or so in climbing back up north to cross 70 down the road. Plus, there was a strong wind coming out of the south that would have smacked me head-on. As you can gather, I chose to take I-70 out of Limon.

It wasn’t bad at all. As I made my way to the interstate, I did so with the intention of checking it out and heading back for 40 if the shoulder didn’t look too good. But I found I had 10-12 feet worth of a shoulder to work with and the traffic wasn’t bad at all. The only slight bummer was the cross wind coming at me from the south. I’ve been told that’s how it is the length of Kansas, so I figured I’d better get used to it. And it was ten times more manageable than the headwind the day before.

Not feeling the best, I wasn’t sure how far toward Burlington, the scheduled stop, I was headed. As I got pedaling I slowly worked out whatever was bothering me and felt better. I went about 40 miles and thought about calling it a day. Instead, I ate a Snickers for Manny, drank a Gatorade and kept plugging along.

The girl at the gas-station told me the towns along this stretch are ten miles apart because that’s how far the train could go back in the old days before it needed water again; cool little fact. So it was comforting to know I had options before locking myself into Burlington, 50 miles away. I ended up getting 16 shy of Burlington. I’m in Stratton. Tomorrow I’ll pass Burlington and head into Kansas. It’ll be good to get to another state.

The mental challenge of the trip has started to weigh on me. I can’t really describe how I feel at this juncture, but it’s definitely different. It’s not necessarily a decidedly good or bad feeling, it’s just blah… I feel like I’ve subconsciously underestimated, or even denied that I was actually and only half way. Like I was somehow expecting to be on the home stretch and coast the rest of the way, when, in actuality, I was truly only half way. I’m not concerned about the feeling; I know it will pass. A huge part of it is just getting on the bike every day again and re-establishing my rhythm, mentally, as well as physically. As I said before, I feel like I’ve been on a vacation from the trip and the bike. I’m finding the “vacation” is more difficult to recover from mentally than physically.

Other than that, I’m on pace and in good shape for the rest of the trip. The next mark to meet is St. Louis. I’m meeting Libby, a good friend of mine, there on the first of August. It’ll be good to see her and hang out before the final push to the Atlantic.

“The Atlantic”… It has become my Mecca. I long to see it, I dream of bathing in it… I’m joking, but I’m serious.

Two nights ago I couldn’t sleep because I was busy thinking. Thinking of all kinds of things: the first half of the trip, people I had met, sights I had seen, lessons I had learned. And then I calmed down a bit and was able to relax when I started thinking of what it’ll be like to finally get to the finish line – and that got things going all over again. I was camping that night. I turned off the lamp and put away the atlas around 9:30. It was 12:15 when I looked at the clock to see how much time I had killed with the restless thought.

Up to this point I’ve done a pretty good job of keeping the thoughts of the finish line at bay; I don’t want to kill myself too much with the thoughts of the end and the many miles I’ve yet to go. However, it is a thrilling thing to ponder. I wonder what that dive into the Atlantic will feel like; how it will feel knowing the ride is over, that it has been completed. I wonder…

Today: 62.73 Total: 2,151.29

Yeah, I wish...

Day 47

July 17, 2005

Today I survived 40 miles worth of a headwind to make it to Limon. The physical act of the ride wasn’t bad at all. Like any hill, you just find your rhythm against the posed force and settle in. It was the fact that I was, at times, averaging 7 miles an hour that drove me crazy.

When you see come across a sign for a town 8 miles away, and arrive at that town an hour later – that can put a bit of a damper on things. When I finally got to Limon I was mentally exhausted. It felt so good to simply arrive. I pulled into an Arby’s for a tasty roast beef sandwich and called some family in Hotlanta.

After my early dinner, I found a little spot to crash for the night. I intended on updating the journal, but put it off for the next day.

Besides the boring gas-station breakfast that morning, that was how Day 47 went.

Today: 39.87 Total: 2,088.56

Day 46

July 16, 2005

Today I got up with a decision about how to head out of Springs. I could have taken the more direct route east out of town, but instead I chose to head northeast toward Limon. There were more towns on the road to Limon and I’d be in a better position for my next move once I got to Limon.

Another fun little perk of heading up toward Limon was that ABC’s Extreme Makeover: Home Edition was wrapping up a project in Peyton, 20 miles out of Springs. I heard they were in town on the news and decided to swing by the set and check things out. As you can imagine, it is quite the production.

As I pulled up to the house, it looked like a small army had taken over and quarantined the whole square half-mile that had become their compound. Trailers, pavilion tents, RV’s, telescoping construction lights, two makeshift parking lots, and a slew of other elements composed a mass of controlled chaos. It was actually pretty neat to think of all the detailed planning and layered timetables that go into pulling off such an operation. I parked the bike and went up on the hill with the rest of the spectators and Ty-watchers.

The guy’s a stud and he knows it. He’d never get lost, that’s for sure. Whenever he wasn’t in the house or in a trailer, the sounds of screaming girls filled the air. I couldn’t understand why they were screaming for him when he was at least 300 yards away. I was standing right beside them and they didn’t even seem to know…

Although I folded into the ranks of the amassed mega nosey neighbors, it was a pretty neat thing to watch. And they also ran coolers full of iced bottled water for the onlookers, which was very cool. One of the vice presidents for the contracting company running the show made one of the water runs up the hill and took a string of questions, answering some of the behind-the-scene questions people had.

After leaving Ty and his blue army of volunteers, I got back on the road toward Limon. I ended up stopping in Calhan for the night. It wasn’t as far as I had planned, but it was good enough. I thought there was some rain coming and wanted to get set up before it caught up to me. The rain never came, but it was good to settle down a little early.

Today: 53.94 Total: 2,048.69

The Extreme Home Production

Supposedly, it'll be the third episode of the new season...

One for the Ladies - sorry that's as close as I got...

And one for Jeff...

Day 45

July 15, 2005

Today was yet another off day. If getting to Missoula was Freshman Orientation, this past week or so has been my Christmas/winter break. I feel like I’ve been on vacation from the trip with all the recent off days. But it was good to regroup and spend some time with the atlas in preparation for my second half off the TransAm.

I got up and made my way for the Gazette, the newspaper of Colorado Springs and its surrounding areas. If you ever have the option to read the Gazette, don’t. It was the first time I got the door slammed on me.

I went in and spoke with a lovely lady at the front desk, told her my story and such, she said to pick up the phone behind me and call up to the newsroom. Long story short, they weren’t impressed. And I should have been a bit more persistent, but I wasn’t. I was so shocked by the lady on the other end and her air of being annoyed by the query that I counted it a loss and went about my quest for a Target.

I was pretty anxious to get to another atlas. If I weren’t preoccupied with the new route, I know I would have tried a different department with the Gazette and been more persistent. But instead I went on a little journey to find food and that atlas. I found Target and the new map around 1:30 and decided to spend the rest of the day hanging out and getting my bearings for the days to come. I also decided to shed some of my extra weight and get a package together to send home.

After finding a place for the night, I left for the post office around 3:45. I was little over a mile down the road when I picked up a flat. The rain was looming in the distance, I was without my gear, and decided to throw some air in the tire and head over to the theater across the way and go to the post office tomorrow before taking off. So, instead of a trip to the post office and a tour around town after, I checked out a Friday matinee of Charlie & the Chocolate Factory. Personally, I’d give it a B+ or so. I thought it was worth my $4.

And that was about how the off day in “Springs” went. I don’t think I’ve mentioned it, but all these towns out here have little nicknames: Colorado Springs is “Springs,” West Yellowstone is simply “West,” Breckenridge is “Breck,” and evidently Pueblo is commonly referred to as “Blow.” So now you too know the lingo to fit in as a hip local should you ever find yourself on the outskirts of one of these fine towns.

I actually covered a few forward miles in my running around today:

Today: 16.94 Total: 1,994.75

This is what a headwind looks like coming out of Canon City.

That's what I'm talking about!!! I'd been hoping to run across some of that good ol' tacky Americana that's supposedly out there...

For a split-second I thought that was water out on the horizon. After the split-second passed, I let myself belive it was as I stopped for a bit. It'll be good to finally see that ocean...

Didn't even snag a picture of Pike's Peak, just awful...

Day 44

July 14, 2005

Greetings from Colorado Springs, Colorado! That’s right, Colorado Springs. As of today, I have officially abandoned the TransAmerica Trail.

As I mentioned yesterday, I have been thinking of a little detour to soak up the little extra time I’ll have before arriving at the Atlantic. I figure, if I stayed on the route and followed it to completion at my current pace, I’d be 5-10 days early. When the Kiwis headed off route to Boulder I was real tempted to go with them, work my way to Colorado Springs, and continue feeling my way across. Then, when riding out of Hartsel, I could have stayed on one road and road into Colorado Springs. So today, when posed with the option to head to the Springs again, I seriously considered it.

I got up and moving a little later than I wanted to – what else is new… When I got on the road I, once again, realized I seriously need to start getting on the bike a lot earlier. The heat today was unreal. It was hot, real hot. It was hot and there was a headwind for the ten miles I rode out of Canon City.

I got off an exit to find some AC and a Gatorade at a little gas station. As I made a left off the exit I saw a sign that read: “Colorado Spgs 35.” Once again, the town beckoned. I don’t know what it is with this town but I’ve been curious about it for a while. I guess it just sounds like a nice, healthy place to live: “Colorado Springs” – maybe it’s me… And like I said, I’ve been thinking about going off route to check it out for a while.

So, when I saw that sign the wheels got turning once again. I pulled into the gas station and got the refreshing Gatorade I had been craving, snagged a sleeve of sunflower seeds, and called my aunt to get the info for the Pueblo newspaper if I kept going as planned. I told her I was considering the detour and headed for the atlas to see what was possible after the Springs.

I was pleased with what I found. From Colorado Springs I can head a little northeast and be on the same latitude as Topeka, Kansas City, St. Louis, Louisville, and Lexington; great media markets to try to tap into with the cause, not to mention a whole lot more exciting than the somewhat boring route along southern Kansas. So, after a few minutes of looking over the atlas, I made up my mind to go out into the unknown and head north to Colorado Springs.

The only difference in turning off the trail is I don’t have the great list of services for each of the towns. Now I will be going off normal road maps and relying on the goodness of the locals to fill me in on the towns ahead and the services within. I think it’s pretty exciting.

I am truly beginning a new chapter in this celebration of the halfway mark. Gone are the days of being spoon-fed by the kind folks of Adventure Cycling. Now I’ll really be rolling with the punches and figuring things out as they come. It’ll be interesting…

So that’s the news. From here I’m not sure where I’m headed, isn’t that great!?! I know I’ll be headed a tad northeast but that’s about it. My next big destination is Topeka, Kansas.

If you would, say prayer for continued safety, wisdom in decision-making, and continued strength of mind and body. Life is good out here and I am thankful for the many blessings I have been fortunate to receive.

Currently, I am sitting in a Panera – home sweet home – waiting for a storm to blow over so I can head down to a hostel and crash for the night. The ride today was pretty exhausting with the heat, the hills, and the headwinds. I’m looking forward to closing my eyes for a few hours…

Today: 46.71 Total: 1,977.81

Day 42 & 43

July 13, 2005

Two off days in a row – What’s going on..?!? Yesterday was a planned off day to enjoy the white water of the Arkansas River on a rafting trip. Today’s off day was an unplanned demonstration in the power of excuses.

Yes, yesterday I went on a white water rafting trip down the lower portion of the Arkansas River through Royal Gorge. It was one of the best experiences of the trip. I went with a company called Echo Canyon and highly recommend them if you’re ever in Canon City. The river guide, TJ, knew a ton about the river and was able to point out numerous highlights of the terrain. At the halfway mark of the 20-mile trip we stopped and had an amazing lunch on the bank of the river featuring a huge deli buffet that impressed all that were able to enjoy it. The views up from the bottom of the gorge were unlike any I’d ever seen; floating down the river, looking up to the thin stretch of sky that peeked down between the 1,400-foot auburn walls of the canyon – it felt like I was in a movie. And the best part – the rapids were amazing. We went through a few series of nice class 4 rapids that I’ll remember forever.

For a would-be adventurer such as myself, there’s nothing like hanging out the side of a raft, trusting you’ve firmly secured your feet, reaching out, grabbing as much water as possible with your paddle, and thrusting yourself and the craft up and over a wave. You crest the wave as it disappears beneath you, sending you back into the river where your met by another wave of water crashing in and washing over you by the married force of the river and the speed with which the raft dove into it. It’s such a rush to be caught in the whirlwind of the ride as you shake off the water, let out a huge, deliberate exhale, and lean out for another adrenaline-induced stroke while straining to hear the guide’s commands amidst the roar of the rapids.

It was unbelievable.

There were several moments when I realized exactly how short life truly is. I kept trying to figure out how I could work out a plan to come back and spend a summer or two working the river myself. What a great time that would be, the guide, TJ, even admitted how fortunate he is. He’s just about to wrap up school and loves the summers on the river. I’m sure I don’t need to go into it, you can imagine what a great few months that must be. On the water everyday, meeting new people and taking them down the river, guiding them down a ride of a lifetime, spending your days among friends while navigating the raft through the rapids on the bottom of the beautiful canyon… I guess I decided to go into it – but there’s just not enough time to do it all, not now at least. Maybe I’ll retire early and take a year or two to come back and learn the river, who knows…

It was a pretty quiet bus ride back, as everyone was exhausted from the trip. I didn’t expect it to be such a workout. However, it was nice to work the abs and upper body a little more than the lower body for a change. The only bummer about the trip was I didn't splurge for the water-proof camera, didn't go for the even more overly priced pictures they took, nor risked taking my not-so-waterproof camera along. Unfortunately, no pictures other than those in my mind to share with you. I rode ten miles into town and found a cheap motel to crash, and crash I did. I checked in, brought in all my stuff, and took an hour nap. Then I woke up and headed for Chili’s to use a few more vouchers for dinner.

With the ten-mile ride to Canon City, the mileage total stands at 1,931.10.

Today I woke up around 9 and emptied all my dirty laundry on the floor. I scooped it all up and went down to find the laundry. The man said they didn’t have anything but said I could go to the Laundromat a mile and a half down the road. So, I came back to the room and dumped the clothes back on the floor. I updated a bit of the journal and tried to beat the clock to be out by noon.

It was 11:30 when I started fighting all the excuses and reasons to take another off day. It was 11:35 when I stopped fighting. I’m so weak.

I am proud to say, however, that I was pretty productive on this second consecutive off day. I went and had lunch – check. I went to Wal-Mart and got a pair of pliers – check. I came back and emailed a few people – check. I’m getting tired of the “check”s. I thoroughly cleaned my bike, which hadn’t been done since Missoula and was very thankful for. I properly fixed my rack, for the last time. I cleaned myself of the diesel-engine mechanic look, picked my clothes back off the floor, and made the hike to the Laundromat.

That was pretty much the day. Tomorrow I’ll finally get to Pueblo on the 44th day of this 88-day trip. Half way home on the half way day – right on track. However, I know it’s not going to take me 44 days to complete the trip. I’m working on a little detour off route to kill some days so I’ll pull up to the Atlantic on the 27th in real time without having to ride around the block for four days. I’ll let you know how that shapes up.

Think of me as I get back on the bike tomorrow after this “weekend” of sorts off. Until next time…

Day 41

July 11, 2005

Today I slayed the Hoosier dragon. It was the highlight of the day. The rest of the “downhill” ride to Canon City would be a tougher test than anticipated.

I woke up and had a great Fireside breakfast with the other guests. It was one of the best breakfasts of the trip, and Nicki prepared it all, with love, for us in her family-sized kitchen. I exchanged goodbyes with everyone and headed for Hoosier.

The ride up Hoosier was one of the best climbs of the trip. I felt great going into it and it was perfectly manageable for where I’m at physically right now. The first six or seven miles of the ten mile climb were nice and steady, then it decided to get a little mean and steep toward the top. The first increase in grade came with a pair of switchbacks about two and a half miles from the summit. The road swung around to my right and then quickly hung another u-turn to my left. Unwilling to succumb to the beast that is Hoosier, I dropped my head, got out of the saddle, and powered my way around the turns – felt like Lance Linthicum…

That was only the first of maybe four nice little surges up to the summit, but I felt great going in and out of each one. It took me less than an hour and a half to scale the ten miles to the summit; I had allotted two hours. I reached the summit and felt I also earned the right refer to the hill by its new name: Hoosier-Daddy Pass! I read Chris & Chaz’ journal where they referred to the pass as such and thought it was perfect.

Once I reached the summit, I went hunting for the little gift left by the guys. It was right where they said it’d be. It was great finding it; a note of encouragement left days earlier by two of the many new friends I’ve made in the trip. After I found the note I made my way over to the sign for the traditional photo session. As I was making my way over, I saw Temple, a guy I met briefly in Silverthorne, making his way up the pass. We chatted for a while, with four additional cyclists on day trips up and down the hill, and fired off a few pictures. Temple and I finished the ride together down to Canon City.

The rest of the day was supposed to be cake after Hoosier-Daddy, but it wasn’t. At all.

The down off the summit was nice, the next 30 miles to Hartsel were relatively nice as well. It was coming out of Hartsel that we met our doom. There is a 4,000-foot drop in elevation in the 55 miles or so from Hartsel to Canon City, you would expect that to be an enjoyable ride, we did… We knew there was one final pass coming out of Hartsel, but as we rode, we weren’t sure when that would come. There ended up being what seemed four “final passes;” it never ended. And then, once we finally scaled the last of the hills, there was a headwind that wouldn’t quit. We had to pedal our way down most of the 4,000-foot drop in elevation. I’m not doing a very good job of painting the picture, just know I was spent each time we went up and over a hill – only to find another one waiting for us. It was the hardest I have worked the entire trip. I told Temple, McKenzie was rough, and there will never be another like it, but I didn’t work to get up it, I survived it. The ride into Canon City whipped me. I was dead when we finally got there. And there was one final hill as we came within a mile of the town. Now, almost angry with the never-ending tests, a new resolve not to be beaten washed over me and I dug real deep for the last bit of energy to muscle my way up the hill in a fashion I could look back on the conquered road and know it didn’t win. It was a small victory, but it meant everything to know I survived all the lessons of learning I’m not so done when I think I am.

We went to the first restaurant we found, ate, and headed to the KOA, where I felt ripped off by the $25 camping fee for the less than $25 accommodations.

Today: 91.81 Total: 1,920.86

One of the last switchbacks plowed over on the way to the summit.

Victory!

It's amazing how quickly the terrain can shift within a matter of a few miles.

Finally found my Bison - the tag on its left ear made for less of a joyous occation than I had hoped.

Day 40

July 10, 2005

Well, the plan for this day failed to materialize. I had a hard time sleeping in the bunk of the Alpen Hutte hostel the night before and woke up at 8:30, I wanted to be 15 miles away and having breakfast at 8:30. I packed all my things, loaded the horse and headed over to a little breakfast joint for the day’s fuel. It was a little after 10 when I finally got on the road.

The ride from Silverthorne to Breckenridge was pretty great. The route followed a 15-mile bike path between the two towns. I really like how a lot of these towns out here cater to outdoor activities and things of that nature. The paved path was well marked with signs warning of tight turns, steep descents, etc. There was one spot that ran in front of a fire station, and the folks of the fire station built a cooler stand that they kept stocked with nice refreshing water that I was able to refill my water bottle from.

After enjoying the nice path to Breckenridge, I pulled in around noon. I parked the bike and went for a nice stroll through the town. As I walked I thought about how ahead of schedule I was. I figured this would be a nice town to spend the night in, and headed over to the hostel to check in for the night. The hostel was also a bed & breakfast run by Nicki and her husband. It was a really nice place with really friendly folks and I was happy with my choice to call it such a short day.

I went back out for lunch and had a great cajuned pasta dish from Rasta Pasta, then finished touring around the town. Later in the night there was a concert in a pavilion that sat adjacent to a lawn on the bank of a small river that runs through Breckenridge. Evidently it’s not uncommon for people to bring their blankets and snacks and sit outside the pavilion on the lawn and enjoy the music coming from within. I went and got a sandwich and came back and enjoyed a bit of the music coming from George Winston’s piano concerto from within the white tarped walls of the pavilion.

When I got back to the hostel I found Nicki and four other guests watching television in the living room. I ended talking to them as I played on the computer at a nearby table and planned the next day. Two of the four were two ladies from Pittsburgh enjoying a nice vacation, and the other two were a nice couple from Tampa, also enjoying their vacation. We talked for close to an hour and one by one they each went collected donations for the Foundation. So Thank You again to Chris, Shirley, and the Wolbarsts for your great company and generous financial support.

I said goodnight to my new friends and went back to my bunk and comfy comforter for the night. Tomorrow I would get up and tackle Hoosier Pass.

Today: 19.15 Total: 1,829.05

The morning fly-fishermen out working the waters in Silverthorne

A little happy trail action on the way to Breckenridge

I guess firemen aren't that bad after all...

The Riverwalk area in Breckenridge

The Fabuous Fireside

Good night, Breckenridge...

Day 39

July 9, 2005

Today was nice. I got up a little later than I wanted, packed up, went to the grocery store for breakfast goodies, went over to check up in the guys, and hit the road.

The guys took the day off yesterday because they weren’t feeling too well. I think they are passing some kind of bug around through them. I like hanging out with them, we had a good, relatively short, time yesterday and hopefully I’ll see them again tomorrow. I chatted with them while I ate and set out to get a jump on them.

About 12 miles out of Kremmling I came to a reservoir where people were enjoying the sun through various water sports. About a mile around a truck with three guys passed me. Shortly I passed them as they were getting out to make their way up a little cliff on the bank of the reservoir. I stopped at the top of the dam to take a few pictures, and as I was stopped I noticed the three guys climbing to the top of the cliff. The only thing I could imagine they were doing was getting ready to jump off. And yes, they did indeed jump off. One by one they stepped off the cliff, enjoyed a three second freefall, and plunged into the water below.

It took about three minutes to convince myself I’d be filled with regret for the next week if I didn’t turn back and jump off that cliff with them.

I turned around and went back to find a guy making his way out of the water. I asked him how the jump was and he replied with an expected, “Ah, it’s awesome!” I lost my shoes and socks, put on my sandals, and made my way up the cliff. When I got to the top it looked four times higher than from the top of the dam a quarter mile away. It took a solid ten to fifteen minutes to work up the nerve to jump. But when I did it was great.

The freefall was long enough for me to go through a mini-cycle of emotions. I left the rock still with the fear of jumping – bad feeling, I then realized I actually jumped and was really flying through the air – good feeling, then I realized I was screaming toward the water at an incredible rate and didn’t want to die – bad feeling. The water was probably a cool 55 degrees and it felt great. It was such a rush, I could barely swim back I was so out of breath from screaming on the way down, screaming once I popped out of the water, and shaking from the adrenaline and coolness of the water. It was one of those things you really couldn’t pass up; a curbside thrill in this coast-to-coast adventure.

After I left the adrenaline junkies, I went to the nearby convenience store to swap shorts and get a bite to eat. I told the lady I am cycling across the country and just had a mini-adventure in jumping off the cliff at the reservoir with some locals. She rolled her eyes and shook her head as I told her of my feat and said, “I supposed they forgot to tell you about the guy that died last year doing that…” I told her no, they didn’t mention it. But just to give you a little glimpse into my sometimes skewed psyche, the first thing that popped into my head when she said that was, “No, and it’s a good thing. I probably wouldn’t have done it if they had…”

Anyway, that was the thrill for the day, and I’m still reeling from it. I’m at Borders right now and their about to kick me out, so I have to wrap it up.

Tomorrow I head to Breckenridge for breakfast and then over Hoosier Pass, the highest of the trip. Monday I’ll hit Pueblo, halfway.

Today: 43.54 Total: 1,809.90

Rocky Mountain Madness - Here I come!

Too good to pass up...

There I go...

A look at the plunge from a better angle, just pretend that's me - Nuts, huh?

I really wanted to double up my cycling shorts and take a trip down that, but I figured I'd better get back on the road...

Day 38

July 8, 2005

Another day has come and gone. This day was filled with a lot of resting and stillness.

I got up at 5:30 to have breakfast with the Dutch couple and kind Lytles in their warm RV. Mrs. Lytle had the coffee ready and the pancakes not too far behind when we arrived to enjoy the jumpstart to our day. We had a great time of enjoying each other’s company in the short time. After we filled up, we thanked the Lytles again for their gracious generosity and said goodbye to each other as Paul and Anne continued their trek westward.

I had planned on enjoying breakfast and then going back to bed, but all the coffee I drank forced me to come up with an alternate plan. I gathered my dirty laundry, went into town to get some cash, came back and ran a load of wash. I played around emailing and such while the laundry finished, then fell asleep for a nap.

I woke up from the nap around 11:30, drenched in sweat. It was incredibly hot. This morning when we woke up it was around 34 degrees, this afternoon when I went to get my early dinner it was 95, honestly. I’ve never experienced such a drastic shift in temperature before.

This morning when I went into town I checked the park where the guys were staying and saw they weren’t there and figured they had already headed out. After dinner I decided to check out the cyclist campsite behind the old fire station and see if there were any new cyclists. I heard people talking and found the four guys were still there. I ended up hanging out with them for an hour or so and heading back to the RV park.

And that’s pretty much how my latest off day went.

The Mobile House of Pancakes

Thanks again folks, it was great!